Wholistic Fitness

This is the First in a Series of Journals written by Andrew “Bantu” Frost, recipient of the 2008 Most Improved HP Yogi Award. Bantu is a world-class mountaineer and is on a Student-Supported WF Online Training Scholarship in preparation for the 5th ascent of an extreme ascent of Mt. McKinley this May.

Coach,

Well, I’ve returned from Colorado, after a great trip which was
full of ice. Here’s the lowdown.

I arrived in Telluride early Wednesday afternoon.

Bear Creek Falls

While waiting
for my partner, Sam Macke, to finish his drive south from Jackson
Hole, I jogged into Bear Creek and soloed some WI3. It was good to
scramble up something easy and confidence-inspiring after not having
climbed any ice since mid-October. When Sam showed up, I was standing
in the parking lot of the Telluride Middle School, eating some cold
barbequed chicken, staring in disbelief at the hordes of folks in
lycra on the ski slopes. Sure is a weird scene there.

Sam and I drove up to check out Ames Ice Hose, and, surprisingly,
the first pitch was in FAT! Stoked to get on some steep ice right
away, we drove up Silver Pick creek, just west of T-ride and hunkered
down in the back of my truck for a chilly night. In the morning, we
went into town to get a few cups of coffee from The Steaming Bean and
see if a friend of mine, who works there, could give us information on
any of the other local climbs.

We parked at the Ames Powerhouse at 7:45 and began shuffling gear
into our packs, but in a relaxed manner as we saw another party ahead
of us on the approach. Once we began the approach, our CV fitness
kicked in and we arrived at the base of the route before they even
took their harnesses out of their bags. In our enthusiasm, we
struggled up a snowy mixed route to the right, in a chimney, probably
around M7 or so (5.11 rock). It probably hadn’t been climbed in
years, and for good reason. Full of loose chockstones and a major
funnel for spindrift, I got the cold shower I didn’t need.

After the leader from the other party hung on the first pitch of the
Ice Hose (WI5 M6 200m IV), they bailed. Since I led the pitch up the
snowy overhanging chimney, it was Sam’s good luck to hook his way up
the beautiful first pitch of Ames. This pitch was truly exquisite
climbing: a thirty foot section of overhanging ice into some easier
terrain followed by a mixed move left (M5ish) to the belay.

The next pitch was mine and gave me ample opportunity to employ the
poise of mind you’ve encouraged me to develop the past eight months.
The ice was not formed completely, sometimes more closely resembling
snow. As you know, “snice,” as it’s called in the parlance of
climbers, is a terrifying medium that your tools and frontpoints shear
through until you’ve consolidated enough of this dubious material
beneath your steel to attempt to stand up again. This act encouraged
only by experience and faith. Only two good pieces of pro in the
entirety of the pitch, but I maintained composure and pushed the rope
up. It was definitely the headiest piece of climbing we ran into all
weekend (WI5 R, M6). Pitches three an four were solid, blue,
beautiful WI4. We rappelled the route without incident and then I ran
up the first pitch again, in my joy, this time on lead.

first pitch; Whorehouse Hoses

Friday morning we went over the pass to Silverton, then past
Silverton to the Eureka area, which is a stunning area compromised
only by significant and frequent avalanche hazard. We climbed
Whorehouse Hoses (WI5+ 265 m IV) and loved the sun. The first pitch
is the crux and that enduro fest was mine. A full 70 m. of
overhanging ice through which to battle the dragons in my head. In
each piece of chandeliered ice, I found the weakest and strongest
reflections of myself. The upper pitches were WI 3 and 4, rambling
terrain which we enjoyed so much we climbed the route twice.

Stairway To Heaven

Saturday morning, being enamored of Eureka, we returned to climb
Stairway to Heaven (WI4 280m IV) (typically described as WI4, but we
found some WI5 variations). A great, long, rambling route we truly
enjoyed the more moderate climbing, but serious avalanche hazard on
this route necessitated speed and a quick exit. Even still, shirts
off at steep belays was a fabulous luxury.

Birdbrain Boulevard

On Sunday, we went to take a look at the classic
Fowler/J.Lowe/Wilford line, Birdbrain Boulevard (WI5 M6 350m V).
After sketching off the second pitch, which was un(der)formed, we went
back to the truck, then up to the Skylight area, which was kind of a
zoo. All the lines there are comprised of short steps in chimneys and
therefore full of that rare breed: ice tourists. After soloing
Choppo’s Chimney (WI5 90m) and Chopped Suey (WI5 60m) we climbed a
couple of laps on the mixed route Tourist Trap (WI5 M6) without any
rock pro (oops, left that at the truck) then headed back into Ouray
for a couple rounds of coffee and cinnamon rolls.

Tourist Trap is the yellow line in the photo.

Out of money, wet, tired of watching all the good lines fall down
(Gravity’s Rainbow, Giant Steps, Sunsplash, etc) and too pumped (and
scared) to hop on the left side of Bridalveil (in at WI6+ for a
sustained three pitches) we hightailed it for the desert to dry ropes
and get a few pitches of sandstone in before heading our separate
ways.

While climbing in the San Juans on this recent outing, I can
certainly vouch for my increased mental discipline and the dividends
it pays. More than once, while slogging through wet, avalanche prone
slopes below climbs or between steps of ice, or while fighting off the
pump and fighting back the fear, which rises like bile on overhanging,
underprotected pitches, I found the focus I’ve cultivated through HP Prop Workout classes and under your guidance.

Perseverance, of course, is a component to success in any endeavor.
Just standing up and making the next tool placement is the victory.
Again and again, over and over in the breath, it is a route. By
continuously confronting the fear that climbing hard ice and mixed
routes in the mountains demands (provides) pitch after pitch, day
after day, relentlessly, yes, it makes everything else easier. It is
so easy to love Celia without fear, to foster and love Rowan without
being frightened of possible parenting mistakes. It is preparation
for life, preparation for death, to breathe through everything and
just stand up.

Yes, by combining the skills of calmness and focus that climbing
cultivates into my day to day life, yes, this is yoga.

Bantu

– Meet and talk with Bantu in the WF SanghaLounge! – don’t miss this great chance to meet and learn from a world-class mountaineer! i’ve climbed most of the routes mentioned in this piece and i just shake my head at the level of Bantu’s abilities!! – coach ilg