time for another check in with WF-Student Sponsored world-class mountaineer; Andrew “Bantu” Frost as he trains for a May ascent of the Denali Diamond on Mt. McKinley…click on pics to receive a thudding chi hit…

“Over the years, I have learned many things about feet. You must have patience with them. You must have faith that they will carry you where you point them. It sometimes takes longer than you want it to. But if you are calm, and respect your feet, they will help you go anywhere. They are like two beautiful horses. Some men beat their horses to get them to go faster. The horses strain and spit, race, and finally stumble in their fear and flying lather. But horses hardly ever fall when you whisper to them; they’ll take you gracefully where you’re going.”
– “Bantu”
From the Bantu Journal; COMMANCHE RIDGE now in the WF SanghaLounge
see more stunning photos from Bantu’s COMMANCHE RIDGE adventure in the Grand Canyon below this Update from him)

photo; Bantu in training; navigating via footwork the crux of “A Day In Court” III 5.12, Sedona, Arizona.


Intended to make it to HP Yoga class last night, but the day’s activities (“A Day in Court,” III 5.12, Courthouse Butte, Sedona, AZ) took a bit longer than expected. Didn’t return to Flagstaff until after 8 pm. Three caught ropes on the rappels due to high winds. This climb was pretty stacked featuring 5 pitches (5.11+, 5.11-, 5.10+, 5.11+, and 5.12-) of consistently hard climbing on frightening rock. Definitely the worst rock quality I’ve experienced in Sedona, which is saying something.

It turned out to be an exceptionally trying climb. The physical difficulty was probably exacerbated by the fact that I had done a hard day in the weight room on Monday doing your prescribed WF Strength Training program, followed by a two hour bouldering circuit at Gloria’s. I was “well trained” and tired going into this climb. Zach, thankfully, helped pick up my slack. He’s such a good buddy and loves crushing it as much as I do.

Here’s some photos. They’re all titled, so do what you will with them.

I figure the “Day in Court” crux photo might provide some evidence of the importance of footwork. For a true understanding of the steepness of that pitch, check out the tag line (hanging from the back of my harness in the photo) and it’s proximity to the overhanging slab I’m about to top out. Could just get the first pad of the fingers of my right hand in the crack at that point. My right foot just smearing on the sandy slab, left toes cammed into the thin crack.

The other photos should help illustrate the Comanche journal.

I’ll get back to you on the April schedule of training. But I know I’m headed down to Cochise Stronghold April 7-9 to climb with an old mentor of mine, Mark Hesse. First person to solo the south face of Denali (American Route). Should be a valuable time.


the crux of Comanche Ridge…see story in the WF SanghaLounge

topout of comanche…the Sacred Peak in background

Leave a Reply