The Perma Grin has not yet left feeble ilg’s old and well weathered (some may say leathered) face since my daughter clipped the final anchor of ‘Pork Sushi’… a 5.10A technical rock climbing route on one of ilgs fav childhood Dakota sandstone pinnacles nestled within the now famous Sailing Hawks bouldering (and mountain biking) area in our Durango backyard.
Approach hike was only 15 minutes; steep yet ideal for getting the blood, oxygen, mind, and most importantly the Prana flowing…
to have my daughter back from Iowa for a brief summer m(om)ment before she returns to college tis a consummation ilg devoutly trained for and looked forward to…
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on the approach to “The Kinderspiel”… the little crag recently developed by Dave Kozak as a beginner/intermediate rock whereupon beginning lead climbers can practice on relatively safe routes. big shout out to Dave cuz as a conscious Daddy, there is NOT a lot of moderate technical climbing routes in Durango whereupon us parents can teach our kids how to lead climb.
the greatest thing about The Kinderspiel is that as a kid – younger than Dewa’s 18 years – ilg literally rode horses and moto’s through and to this very rock… ilg recalls many sunshiny m(om)ents building campfires and camping near this rock (we actually found one of my old childhood campfires on the north side of The Kinderspiel)…
little did child ilg know that one day?
a very special m(om)ent would happen with my own daughter over 5 decades later….
Here, Dewa readies for her Flash Lead of ‘The Fox Elmo Route’… 5.4 on the Kinderspiel…
Its one thing to rock climb with the rope in front of your face…entirely different ball game when the rope disappears beneath your legs and YOU and YOUR decisions literally dictate the health and well being of your limbs and life…
Dewa flexing as she topped out leading “Fox Elmo”…
Next up on Dewa’s tear was “Sasha aka Yaya”… a 5.6 route that climbs the NE arete of The Kinderspiel…
delicate for the hands, yet with solid feet, Dewa danced it easily on lead after a TR flash send.. she was feeling it…
On the north wall of The Kinderspiel is a short 5.10A route; Pork Sushi.
a hard V3 bouldery start with a tenuous clip for the first bolt, a wee bit yet still engaging clip for bolt #2 on steep, sloping hand/footholds leads to easier climbing past 1 more bolt till the overhanging anchors…
at age 64, your feeble ilg somewhat easily sent it with a great belay from Dewa…
that’s when?
plot change:
“Dad? I think I can lead this! Can I try?”
ilg; reflecting quickly on how MANY DECADES it took ilg to finally lead my first 5.10… yet, based on a WHOLE lot of experience with Dewa and literally spending 2 days researching this exact route to be possibly a candidate for her first 5.10 lead by the end of our summer break together? yeah, did NOT figure that TODAY Dewa would want to try to send this 5.10 after 5.6 being her hardest ever lead!??! ilg took a long trustful breath…
“Permission granted, babygirl… let’s fucking send this!”
so, quickdraw in mouth to clip the first bolt… Dewa sent off and upwards, the rope between her legs…
managed this pic after she FLOATED and BULLIED her way past the first hard bouldery sections above bolt #2…
Dewa, after clipping the top out anchors of her first ever 5.10; Pork Sushi!!!!
If you are parent?
A conscious parent with priorities intact of allowing your chi-ld to play and engage and LOVE high intensity within Mother Natures resplendent challenges!??! check out my YouTube Channel for Dewa’s post send interview…
Blessed Be Thy Practice
These teachings are the "Rasas" or "sap" of Wholistic Fitness. You’ll find insights to ponder, student chi to keep your own chi topped off, and plenty of proven training techniques to test on your own body, mind, and spirit! Also, you’ll find my very popular Race Reports, and news of our Sangha’s (community’s) latest transpersonal fitness adventures!